TutuToday

Paula Drake of TutusDivine is considered to be one of the great tutu designers today.  Here are some tips she recently sent me:

This process [Making a Tutu] is not hard, but it can't be rushed.

And people need to know that it all takes time and alot of pins.

I believe that your work is only as good as the tools and materials you use.

Some people are fine with using a zig-zag stitch to put the top material and their lining together, I have to use my serger, I want a strong finished look.

Some people don't cord their edges,  but I like the look I get with my cording so I make my own cording.

Some people use bias tape as their boning tape, or put their boning in a seam, or use the plastic stuff.....I will never do that.....I am selling my time as well as a look, and I want the tutu to last for a very long time.

With proper care a well made tutu should last up to 20 or more years.

If a customer gives me enough time I always send out a mock up, or a muslin of the bodice that I am using for them, and I have them fit it on the dancer, they can mark it up, re-pin it, or do whatever they need to do so that I will know what the pattern has to do so that that bodice will fit them.

There is so little wearing ease in a tutu bodice, it has to fit like a second skin.....and they can change sizes even during a show.

I'll send an extra set of bars in case a dances needs to have the tutu made tighter after dancing in it for the first act.

The lining material which is either coutil or twill/drill must be pre-washed.

The pattern must be pressed with a light heat and dry iron.  Make sure that the pattern pieces are on the grain of the material......and then after they press all materials, the fashion (top) material and the lining are pinned carefully together and all edges are surged.

I like to get a picture of the dancer as well, it helps to see their body build,and coloring and their personality shows through.

I like this web site:  Oregon Ballet Theater  - News from the Costume Shop:

The Panty

A professional tutu will use a sturdy fabric for the panty.  Lycra rolls and pulls out of shape, and that is why cheaper tutus are all wiggie/wog.

This all takes time, but the final result is well worth the effort....it is the foundation that you will then build the tutu on, and taking care here saves you in the long run.

There are basically two choices:  cotton bobbinette and Powernet.

Cotton Bobbinette

• Cotton Bobbinette  comes only in 38 to 41" and stretches over time
• You can quilt it or use a double layer
• It is expensive at $21.00 a yard so if you are using a double or triple layer the panty costs are double or triple
• If you quilt it to make you might as well use Powernet

Powernet

• Powernet is 45" wide, and the med weight is $12.00 a yard while the heavy weight is $14.00 a yard
• Powernet adds strength and stability to the panty.

Putting the Panty Together

• Cut the panty with a center seam
• After all of the pieces are cutout serge all of the edges
• Then sew the front seam leaving a little room in the crouch area to add leg casing
• Press open the seam and zig zag on either side of the seam edges
• Decide if you want the seam to go on the inside next to the dancer or turn it to the outside so that the bulk  of the seam is on the outside
• This is a matter of choice
• Cut two leg casings from the power net on the bias and serge the edges
• Then sew the first seam to the outside edge
• Press
• Top stitch as close to the leg line as to can get (leave room to add elastic)
• Turn the casing to the inside and sew the last seam of the leg casing in to the inside of the leg
• Remember to leave room to add the elastic

Please contact me should you have any questions.

Lee Ann Torrans
ltorrans@gmail.com

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